(Re)discovering our city - Luxembourg's first Chinese restaurants

You think you know our capital? Well, think again! Some of the buildings you walk past regularly conceal a special story. Dr Robert L. Philippart is a true expert on the subject and will take you on a tour of the city to discover these hidden stories, which will give you a new perspective on some emblematic buildings.

The first Chinese restaurants in Luxembourg

The post-war years were marked by openness to the world. Luxembourg's political position changed as post-war Europe became more organised. In August 1952, Luxembourg became a member of the European Coal and Steel Community. In 1958, the Benelux Treaty was signed and trade increased and took on new forms.  Luxembourg entered a new era and with immigration, its cuisine became richer and more varied. 

The democratisation of tourism also played an important role. Airlines offered holidays to destinations as far away as possible. When they returned from their holidays, Luxembourgers wanted to discover at home the national cuisines they had tasted during their stays. 

In 1951, the soprano Liu Li Fei, her violinist brother and the singer Bruno Wyczuj opened the first Chinese restaurant in Luxembourg in rue Beaumont. The exotic décor was imported from the Netherlands and the costumes were bought in Hong Kong. The opening of such a 'curiosity' gave the capital a 'big city' feel and was also intended to attract American tourists. The opening menu, prepared by Wai Fook, included a Chinese croquette, chicken soup, roast pork à l'impératrice with rice and Chinese cabbage, octopus with curry sauce and rice. Dessert rounded off the meal. Fook learned the secrets of the ancient art of Chinese cooking from his uncle in Hong Kong. He had spent many years sailing the seas for the British Thompson Line, first as a steward, then as a sous-chef and finally as a chef. After the war, Wai Fook moved to Antwerp, then the Netherlands and finally Luxembourg. The number of Chinese restaurants grew rapidly, especially from the mid-1950s, in the climate of the Cold War. Some believed that Maoist propaganda cells were spreading there.

In 1957, the restaurant ‘La Chine’ was transferred to the rue d'Anvers. The restaurant was small, but well lit thanks to the very light tapestries. The dark, opaque curtains created a particularly contrasting effect and ensured the intimacy of the premises. Wao Fook served bamboo soup and roast pork in sweet and sour sauce. Such was its success that Fook opened a second restaurant of the same type on the first floor of the building forming the corner of rue Philippe II / Avenue Monterey. The waitresses wore kimonos to serve their customers. All the decor, bought in the Netherlands, suggested a stereotyped traditional China.

Such was the success that other Chinese restaurants followed in the city: the Orient opened in 1966 as part of the Euro-Hotel on the Route d'Arlon. Choi-Hei-Moon was the chef who prepared the popular dishes. This was followed in 1970 by the Hong Kong restaurant, which was appreciated not only for its cuisine but also for its authentic Chinese décor. Hok Chung Man was born in Hong Kong in 1943. He ran a number of Chinese restaurants in London and Antwerp before settling in Luxembourg.  In 1974, he opened the restaurant 'China Garden' in the rue Beaumont. In 1980, Mai Wah in the rue des Capucins won the title of best Chinese restaurant in the Benelux, while in 1979, the restaurant Confucius opened on the corner of the Boulevard Royal and the Grand'Rue, and in 1986, the Palais de Chine. In the 1980s, Chinese restaurants, which were generally inexpensive and aimed at young families, began to proliferate both in the cities and in the countryside.

Research and text:

Robert L. Philippart

Photo credits: 

N° 21 Restaurant la Chine © Luxemburger Wort 24 11 1951

Emplacement premier restaurant chinois 14 rue Beaumont © Rolph